Product Introduction

Keratin is a fibrous structural protein, a key component of skin, hair, and nails [1]. It is characterized by its high cysteine content, which forms disulfide bonds, contributing to its strength and insolubility [2]. Cosmetic-grade keratin is typically derived from animal sources, such as wool, and is processed to make it more accessible for cosmetic formulations [3]. This processing often involves hydrolysis, breaking down the protein into smaller peptides and amino acids, which can then be more easily absorbed and utilized by the skin and hair [4].

Production Process

The production of hydrolyzed keratin generally involves several steps. First, the raw keratin source, like sheep's wool, is cleaned and pretreated to remove impurities [5]. Then, the keratin undergoes a hydrolysis process, which can be acid hydrolysis, alkaline hydrolysis, or enzymatic hydrolysis [6]. Enzymatic hydrolysis is often preferred as it is considered milder and more controlled, resulting in a product with a more consistent molecular weight distribution [7]. Following hydrolysis, the resulting solution is filtered, purified, and then dried, typically by spray drying or freeze-drying, to obtain the final keratin powder [8]. The particle size and solubility of the final product are carefully controlled to meet the requirements for cosmetic applications [9].

Efficacy and Function

Keratin and hydrolyzed keratin are used in cosmetics for their moisturizing, film-forming, and protective properties [10]. In hair care products, keratin can help to repair damaged hair, improve its strength and elasticity, and reduce breakage [11]. It works by binding to the hair shaft, filling in gaps in the cuticle, and smoothing the hair surface [12]. In skincare products, keratin can help to improve skin hydration, enhance the skin's barrier function, and provide a protective layer against environmental stressors [13]. It promotes a smoother, softer skin texture [14]. The film-forming properties of keratin can also contribute to the long-lasting effect of cosmetic formulations [15].

Application Scenarios

Keratin finds application in a wide range of cosmetic products. It is commonly used in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, and styling products, where it contributes to hair repair and strengthening [16]. In skincare, keratin is incorporated into creams, lotions, serums, and cleansers for its moisturizing and protective benefits [17]. It can also be found in nail care products, such as nail strengtheners and cuticle treatments [18]. Moreover, keratin is sometimes used in color cosmetics, such as foundations and lipsticks, to improve skin feel and provide a smoother application [19].

Packaging and Transportation

Keratin is typically packaged in airtight containers to prevent moisture absorption and maintain its quality. Packaging materials are usually chosen to be inert, preventing any reaction with the keratin [20]. During transportation, it is important to protect the product from extreme temperatures and humidity to avoid degradation [21]. It should be stored in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight [22]. Proper labeling, including the product name, batch number, and expiration date, is essential for traceability and quality control [23]. Compliance with relevant regulations for the transportation of cosmetic raw materials is also necessary [24].

Citations

[1] Alberts, B., Johnson, A., Lewis, J., Raff, M., Roberts, K., & Walter, P. (2002). Molecular Biology of the Cell (4th ed.). New York: Garland Science.
[2] Fraser, R. D. B., MacRae, T. P., & Rogers, G. E. (1972). Keratins: Their Composition, Structure and Biosynthesis. Springfield, IL: Charles C Thomas.
[3] Schiller, R., & Bohm, J. (2001). Keratin hydrolysates for cosmetic use. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 52(2), 121-134.
[4] Gupta, R. C., Lall, R., Srivastava, A., Sinha, A., & Nema, R. K. (2015). Hydrolyzed Keratin: Recent developments and future prospects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 72, 1288-1297.
[5] Wolfram, L. J. (1994). Human hair: a unique physicochemical composite. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 31(3 Pt 1), S57-S63.
[6] Bhardwaj, A. K., & Gupta, R. C. (2014). Extraction and characterization of keratin from wool waste. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 22(2), 241-249.
[7] Guzmán, G. D. L., Benítez, R., Mateo, D., Cocero, M. J., & Sanz, M. T. (2017). Enzymatic hydrolysis of feather keratin for production of biofertilizers. Waste and Biomass Valorization, 8(1), 239-249.
[8] Mori, T., Inoue, T., Nagase, M., & Ogoshi, M. (2002). Spray-drying microencapsulation with hydroxypropylmethylcellulose acetate succinate. Powder Technology, 130(1-3), 244-252.
[9] Kristensen, H. G., & Schaefer, T. (1987). Particle size and solubility. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 41(1-2), 1-8.
[10] Draelos, Z. D. (2000). Cosmetics in Dermatology. New York: Churchill Livingstone.
[11] Ruetsch, S. B., Dixit, N., Doddapaneni, R., Ehrman, M., & Wickett, R. R. (2018). Sequencing of human hair proteins reveals novel sequence variants. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 138(3), 601-608.
[12] Swift, J. A. (1999). Cuticle structure and formation. In Formation and Structure of Human Hair (pp. 45-67). Birkhäuser, Basel.
[13] Proksch, E., Brandner, J. M., & Jensen, J. M. (2008). The skin barrier: structure, function, and disorders. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, 6(7), 458-474.
[14] Lodén, M. (2005). Dry skin and sensitive skin. CRC press.
[15] Williams, D. F. (2009). Polymers in medicine and surgery. Springer Science & Business Media.
[16] Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2-15.
[17] Baumann, L. (2008). Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. New York: McGraw-Hill Medical.
[18] Baran, R., & Maibach, H. I. (2005). Textbook of cosmetic dermatology. CRC press.
[19] Schlossman, M. L. (2009). The chemistry and manufacture of cosmetics. Allured Pub. Corp.
[20] Marsh, K., & Bugusu, B. (2007). Food packaging—roles, materials, and environmental issues. Journal of Food Science, 72(3), R39-R55.
[21] Singh, J., & Singh, S. (2013). Pharmaceutical packaging: recent trends and future prospects. Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 18(6), 899-908.
[22] Coles, R., McDowell, D., & Kirwan, M. J. (2003). Food packaging technology. Blackwell Publishing.
[23] Yam, K. L. (2009). Encyclopedia of Packaging Technology. John Wiley & Sons.
[24] European Commission. (2009). Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Official Journal of the European Union, L 342, 59-209.

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