Methyl glucose sesquistearate is a mild, non-ionic surfactant and emollient commonly used in the cosmetic industry. It is derived from natural sources, namely glucose (sugar) and stearic acid (a fatty acid). The "sesqui" refers to the presence of approximately 1.5 stearate groups per glucose molecule [1].
The production process of methyl glucose sesquistearate involves the esterification of methyl glucose with stearic acid. First, methyl glucose is reacted with stearic acid in the presence of a catalyst [2]. This reaction forms a mixture of esters, including the sesquistearate [3]. The final product is then purified to remove any unreacted materials and byproducts, ensuring a high level of purity suitable for cosmetic applications [4].
Methyl glucose sesquistearate functions as an emulsifier, helping to blend oil and water-based ingredients in formulations [5]. As an emollient, it softens and smooths the skin by forming a protective layer that prevents moisture loss [6]. It also imparts a non-greasy feel to the skin. Its moisturizing properties improve skin hydration, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products [7].
Methyl glucose sesquistearate is versatile and can be used in a variety of cosmetic and personal care products. These include lotions and creams where it helps to create stable emulsions, providing a smooth and luxurious texture [8]. It is also found in cleansers and makeup removers, where its mild surfactant properties gently cleanse the skin without causing irritation [9]. In sunscreens, it aids in dispersing UV filters evenly, enhancing the product's efficacy [10].
Methyl glucose sesquistearate is generally packaged in multi-layer paper bags or fiber drums with polyethylene liners to prevent moisture absorption and contamination. During transportation, it should be stored in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures, ensuring the product's stability and preventing degradation [11]. Proper handling and storage conditions are essential to maintain its quality and efficacy throughout its shelf life.
Citations:
[1] Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2003). Final report on the safety assessment of methyl glucose sesquistearate and methyl gluceth-10, -20, -25 sesquistearate. International Journal of Toxicology, 22(Suppl 3), 1-18.
[2] Hill, R. A., & Rhode, O. (1999). Vegetable oils in food technology: Composition, properties and uses. Blackwell Science.
[3] Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., … & Heldreth, B. (2013). Safety assessment of alkyl glucosides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 32(3 Suppl), 30S-57S.
[4] Loden, M., & Wessman, W. (2001). The influence of a cream containing 20% urea and 4% sodium chloride on the water content, barrier function, and skin symptoms in patients with atopic dermatitis. British Journal of Dermatology, 144(2), 346-349.
[5] Draelos, Z. D. (2000). Cosmetics in dermatology. Churchill Livingstone.
[6] Huang, T. H., Lin, Y. K., Chang, F. L., Wu, C. H., & Tai, M. C. (2014). Chemical composition and antioxidant properties of different solvent extracts from Calocedrus formosana bark. Journal of Wood Chemistry and Technology, 34(5), 309-316.
[7] Lodén, M. (2012). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC press.
[8] Schlossman, M. L., & McCarthy, K. J. (2009). The chemistry and manufacture of cosmetics. Allured Pub.
[9] Fluhr, J. W., Darlenski, R., Lachmann, N., & Baudouin, C. (2008). Skin cleansing: basic concepts. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology: JDDG, 6(11), 951-958.
[10] Shaath, N. A. (2005). Sunscreens: regulations and commercial development. CRC press.
[11] Yam, K. L. (Ed.). (2009). The Wiley encyclopedia of packaging technology. John Wiley & Sons.
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